[No. 7]

Since I had last the honor of addressing you on the 22nd Inst

I have carried out the project which I have long entertained, of a canoe
expedition through the Canal de Arro, and along the east coast of
Vancouver's Island, for the purpose of examining the country and of
communicating with the native Tribes, who inhabit that part of the
Colony, and I will now concisely state the result of my observations, in
the course of that Journey.

In our passage through the Canal de Arro, we were struck with the extreme incorrectness of Arrowsmiths Map of Vancouver's Island. The
line of coast is well delineated, and could be traced upon the map, as
far as the promontory named "Cowetchin head," but from that point, all
resemblance to the coast ceases; the mutlitude of Islands forming the
Arro Archipelago, which extend as far as, and terminate at "Cala
descanso", being laid down as an integral portion of Vancouver's Island,
whereas the true line of coast runs from 15 to 20 miles west of its
position as laid down, on that map, the intermediate space being
occupied by Islands, and channels of various breadths, generally
navigable, but probably inconvenient for sailing vessels, on account of
the strong currents and frequent calms, which occur in those narrow
waters. A correct survey of those channels will remove many of the
difficulties, that would at present be experienced by sailing vessels
navigating those straits, and should Her Majesty's Government, at any
time direct surveys to be made in this quarter I think the Arro
Archipelago will be found to have peculiar claims to their attention, as
there is a prospect of its soon becoming the channel of a very important
trade.

On our route through the Canal de Arro we touched at the
Cowegin River, which falls into that Canal, about 20 miles north of
Cowegin head, and derives its name from the Tribe of Indians, which
inhabit the neighbouring country.

They live in several villages each having a distinct chief, or head-
manheadman, who cannot be said to rule the community which acknowledges his
supremacy, as there is no code of laws, nor do the chiefs possess the
power or means of maintaining a regular government; but their personal
influence, is nevertheless very great, with their followers. The
Cowegins are a warlike people mustering about 500 fighting men, and the
total population is about 2100 Souls.

They were extremely friendly and hospitable to our party, and gave
us much information in regard to the interior of the country; which by
their report appears to be well watered, and abounding in extensive
tracts of arable land.

The Cowegin River rises in a Lake within a few hours journey of the
Salt-water arm of Nitinat (Barclay's Sound) on the west coast of
Vancouver's Island, and is navigable for canoes to its source. Those
Indians partially cultivate the alluvial Islands near the mouth of the
River, where we saw many large and well kept fields of potatoes, in a
very flourishing state, and a number of fine cucumbers which had been
raised, in the open air, without any particular care.

About 10 miles north of the Cowegin, the Chemanis River enters
the Canal de Arro, it is altogether a smaller stream, than the former,
and is navigable to a short distance only from the coast. It is
inhabited by a branch of the Cowegin Tribe, whom we did not see.

As we proceeded north from the Cowegin River, a complete change
was observed in the physical character of the country, the primitive and
transition rocks of the Victoria District, being replaced by the
sand==stonesandstone formations; in some places falling with a gentle slope, in
others presenting precipitous cliffs towards the sea.

The PromotoryPromontory of Cala Descanso is the northern point of the
Arro Archipelago, beyond which is the Inlet of Wentuhuysen, to which
point my attention was particularly attracted, through a report of coal
having been seen by the Indians in that vicinity. These people are
called "Nanymo", and speak nearly the same language, but have not the
reputation of being either so numerous or warlike in their habits, as
the Cowegin Tribe.

We entered into immediate communication and found them very
friendly and disposed to give every information, we desired, in regard
to all matters concerning their own affairs, and the country which they
inhabit.

They live chiefly by fishing, and also grow large quantities of
potatoes, in fields which they have brought into cultivation near their
villages. Those are built chiefly on a river, named "Nanymo" after the
Tribe, which falls into the Inlet, and is navigable for Canoes to the
distance of 40 miles from the sea coast. Food is cheap and abundant,
and we were plentifully supplied with fresh salmon, and excellent
potatoes during our stay there.

The reports concerning the existence of coal in that place,
were I rejoice to say, not unfounded; as the Indians pointed out, three
beds, cropping out in different parts of the Inlet; and they also
reported that several other beds, occurred on the coast, and in the
interior of the country which we did not see. One of those beds
measured 57 3/4 inches in depth, of clean coal, and it was impossible to
repress a feeling of exultation in beholding, so huge a mass of mineral
wealth, so singularly brought to light by the hand of nature, as if for
the purpose of inviting human enterprise, at a season when coal is a
desideratumdesired in the Pacific, and the discovery can hardly fail to be of
signal advantage to the Colony. The two other seams which we examined,
were about 3/4 of a mile distant from the former, and measured
respectively 3 inches and 20 inches in depth, and are valuable cheifly
as indicating the direction of the beds.

There is every reason to believe from the appearance of the
country, and its geological phenomena, that Vancouvers' Island about
Wentuhuysen Inlet, is one vast coal field, and if that conjecture be
correct the progress of the Colony, will be rapid and prosperous;
notwithstanding the many adverse circumstances, which have hitherto
retarded the development of its resources.

That consideration induces me to offer a few remarks on the
navigation of the Coast, between Victoria and Wentuhuysen Inlet. The
shortest and most direct route between those points, is through the
Canal de Arro, a part of the coast of which little is known, and judging
from the maps in my possession, which has never been correctly surveyed.
Merchant vessels are therefore deterred from taking that route and
follow the circuitous channel explored by "Vancouver" in the year 1795,
which greatly prolongs the voyage, making the difference of nearly a
week, in point of time, on a short run of 140 miles.

It is therefore of the very greatest importance to the trade of
this colony that the Canal de Arro, should be explored, and a correct
survey prepared as soon as possible, shewing the soundings, shoals and
anchorages where ships may bring to, in calms, or during the continuance
of adverse winds; and I beg most earnestly to recommend that measure to
your consideration; especially as Her Majestys Government, would thereby
render an essential service not only to this Colony, but to the general
interests of trade and navigation.

Our excursion did not extend beyond the Inlet of Wentuhuysen,
from whence we commenced our return to Victoria, after distributing small presents to the chiefs of the various Tribes, with which they
appeared highly satisfied.

In the course of that journey we observed traces of iron
stone, in several parts of the coast, and we also procured a rich
specimen of Copper ore, found in a distant part of Vancouvers Island,
which will be hereafter examined.

The Hudsons Bay Company's Schooner "Cadboro" lately visited
the coal district in Wentuhuysen Inlet, and succeeded in procuring, with
the assistance of Indians, about 50 Tons of Coal, in one day. The
harbour is safe and accessible to vessels of any class, and the coal is
within 2 cables length of the anchorage, so that every circumstance
connected with this valuable discovery is suggestive of success.

The Hudsons Bay Company have also sent a small body of Miners to
examine the coal beds and to commence immediate operations there.

Her Majesty's ship "Thetis" arrived at Esquimalt, on the
22nd Inst direct from Queen Charlottes Island, and I believe
Captain KuparKuper has orders from the Commander in Chief to remain
on this coast, till the month of January next; chiefly with the view of
guarding the Ports of Queen Charlottes Island. The gold diggings in
that quarter have not been productive this season, which has not however
altered the general opinion entertained as to its wealth in the precious
metals; the Adventurers ascribing their late want of success simply to
the circumstance of the true beds not having been discovered.

Fine specimens of lead and copper ore, have also been procured on
Queen Charlottes Island, which, in a commercial view, gives it an
additional value.